[백패킹] Ansel adams Wilderness, 7/28-30

올 겨울 최고의 적설량을 기록한 시에라는 티오가 패스를 포함한 도로가 7월말에 열리기 시작했고, 우리가 가진 백패킹 퍼밋을 시작할 수 있는 agnew meadows 를 갈 수 있는 미나렛 길도 올해는 7/21에 열려서, 갈수 있을지 없을지 예상이 힘든 여정이었다. 

1. 7/27일 베이에서 출발해서 요새미티 lambert dome 하이킹, 짧지만 360도 뷰가 펼쳐지는 곳. 멀리 도나휴 패스, 아래에 lyell, 트왈룸니 강과 초원, cathedral peak 를 보며 와우를 연발 하게 하는 곳. 평일이라 하이커도 몇 없고 고요했다.

2. 매모쓰 레이크 다운타운에 있는 old shady 캠핑장에서 1박, 예전에도 여기서 1박 하고 백패킹 시작 했는데 조용하고 편리한곳.

3. 새벽 5시에 텐트 접고 트레일 헤드로 출발하여 친구네 가족과 만났다. 에그뉴 메도우로 들어가는 길은 오전 7시까지 들어가야 자차로 들어갈수 있고 낮에는 셔틀로만 접근이 가능. 모기가 엄청 많았다.

4. 하이트레일에서  아침 7시 하이킹 시작. 3마일이 고도 2천을 올라가는 스위치 백이라 걱정했으나 기우였음. 아침 일찍이라 덥지 않고 힘이 있을때라 쉽게 올라감. 3마일 후 펼쳐지는 미나렛, 배너, 리히터 레인지, 쉐도우 레이크 와우 연발. 하이 트레일에는 눈이 없음.

5. 오후 2시 30분 눈에 덮힌 배너 아래 아직 얼음이 둥둥 떠 있는 thousands lake 입구 도착. 샌디에고에서 온 고등학생들 그룹을 트레일에서 지나쳤는데 호수에 송어가 넘치고 던지면 잡힌다는 이야기를 들음. 

6. 시에라 하이웨이라 불리는 JMT 선상에 있는 이 곳은 평년과 달리 반에 반의 사람들도 보이지 않음. 올해 눈때문에 아직 안 오는 모양임. 배너 피크와 호수가 내려다보이는 언덕에 텐트 자리 잡음

7. 남편은 송어 낚시에 나섬. 던지면 잡힌다는건 잘 하는 사람 이야기였지만 잘 잡히는건 맞는 이야기였음. 4마리가 잡혔다는데 물론 다 놓아줌. 모두 무지개 송어였다고 함. 이제껏 낚시해서 잡은 물고기 수 보다 더 많은 물고기를 잡아 본 신기한 경험을 하심.

8. 저녁은 집에서 만들어서 건조한 렌틴 슾, 그라운드 비프, 스파게트 스콰시, 성공. 

9. 모기가 슬슬 나오기 시작해서 텐트 들어감. 8시 해가 내려가고 하늘은 핑크로 물 듬. 이 시간이 백패킹에서 좋아하는 시간 중의 하나. 

10. 새벽 5시 일어나서 커피 만들고 해돋이 준비. 6시전에 하늘이 핑크로 물들고, 계속 바뀌는 색깔과 톤에 아름답다 소리가 절로 나옴. 게다가 눈에 덮힌 피크에 내리는 햇살과 색은 엔젤 아담스가 그 무거운 카메라를 들고 100년도 전에 이곳에 와서 담고 싶었는지 이해할수 있음. 우리는 스마트폰으로 연신 찍어 내지만 백분의 일도 담을 수 없음. 눈으로 마음에 담아갈수밖에 없는 크나큰 풍경.

11. 아침 8시 가넷 레이크로 출발 하기전 호수 입구에서 낚시 하는거 구경하고, 그 전날 지나쳤던 고딩들이 이미 와서 송어를 잡는걸 옆에서 구경해봄. 고등학생들은 2.5마일 떨어진 곳에서 캠핑했는데 낚시하러 새벽같이 일어나서 다시 왔다고 함. 

12. 에메랄드, 루비를 거쳐, 가넷 도착. 리히터 아래 이 호수 항상 올때마다 춥고 바람이 많이 부는데 이날도 바람 때문에 모기는 없었음. 

13. 가넷은 눈부심. 호수에 비친 피크와 햇살이 내려 꽂는 호수, 바람에 흔들리는 물결, 심지어 따뜻한 날씨까지 완벽한 호수. 니가 최고구나. 

14. 가넷에서 남쪽 패스로 가는 스위치백은 완전 눈으로 덮혀 있어서 하이킹 폴 없이는 미끄러짐. 다른 사람들 발자국 따라서 조금씩 전진하다보니 패스. 

15. 패스에서 내려다보는 호수, 점심 

16. 고갯길 다른쪽 풍경은 멀리 보이는 높은 봉우리들로 또 와우 만발. 친구네 가족은 이다이자를 가지 않는걸로 해서 남편이랑 다른 친구랑 셋이서 이다이자를 가기로 결정. 이다이자 갈림길에 텐트를 쳐 놓고 출발. (저녁에 모기 때문에 미리함)

17. 이다이자 트레일은 2/3는 쉬웠으나 나머지 호수까지는 눈때문에 길이 있다가 없다가 해서 앱을 따라서 감. 모기 작렬

18. 명불허전. 이다이자, 니가 이 모든 미인들 사이에서 최고의 미인 이다. 미나렛, 리히터가 둘러싼 이 호수는 그 이쁨이 사진으로도 담기지 않고  가서 봐야만 하는 곳. 일주전 사진은 아직 얼음으로 덮혀 있었는데 지금은 거의 다 녹음. 

낮이라 아직 기온도 따뜻하고 햇살은 쎄지만 물멍 산멍 하는 시간이 이게 현실인가 싶을정도로 아름답다. 

저번에 왔을때는 아이스버그 호수까지 오프트레일로 갔지만 지금은 눈때문에 트레일로도 가기 힘든듯.  캠프 싸이트는 호수 건너인데 가는길이 험난한건지 중간에 크릭 건너는게 힘든건지, 먼저 도착했던 스카우트 그룹은 왔다가 가서 보고는 그냥 돌아갔다. 

19. 모기의 시간. 무섭다. 텐트로 돌아와서 저녁 먹고 바로 텐트행.

20. 새벽 4시에 기상. 하늘은 은하수가 아직 보이고 있었고 깜깜했다. 모기가 나오기전에 커피와 아침을 끝내고 줄행랑.

21. 아침 8시 30분 주차장에 도착. 집으로 출발. 10분 운전 하고 나오는데 곰박스에 음식 두고 온게 생각 났다. 다시 들어갈수도 없고 (아침 7시 이후 차량 금지) 해서 ㅠㅠ

22. 동네 맛집이라는 커피집 (레드 벨벳?) 에서 핸드 드립 커피 사서 집으로 출발. (커피는 별로) 요새미티 통과해서 중간에 점심 먹고 집에 오니 오후 4시 30분. 

좋았던건
풍경은 더 할 나위없고,
길에서 잠깐씩 만나는 백패커들. 공동체라 그런지 다들 도와주려는 마음들이 있다. 나도 보통때는 성질 나쁘지만 트레일에서는 천사가 된다. 

최고의 단점은
다 좋은데 운전이 긴게 흠.

 

Route: From Agnew Meadow, we took the High Trail to Thousand Island Lake, Garnet Lake, Ediza Lake, and Shadow Lake, and then back to Agnew Meadow. We arrived at 6 a.m., and parking was straightforward. The High Trail was clear of snow. It was exceedingly beautiful, with high peak views along the trail. Thousand Island Lake was spectacular, with Banner Peak covered in snow. There are lots of large rainbow trout near the outlet. Many campsites were still covered with snow, but we found good, dry campsites along the lake. The alpine glow was spectacular; both sunset and sunrise views were amazing. The weather was warm and comfortable at night. There were mosquitoes present, but not as many as in Agnew Meadows. We hiked to Garnet Lake and Ediza Lake. The north-side switchback from Garnet Lake to the south-bound JMT pass was still covered with snow. It was slippery, so the hiking pole helped. We did not bring microspikes. The trail was partially covered with snow near the last part of Ediza Lake, so we had to rely on the AllTrails map. There is a new log bridge over the creek, so crossing was easy. The lake has mostly thawed now and is icy cold. We saw some tents on the other side of the lake but also noticed some backpackers turning back. We suspect the campsites area was still covered with snow. Lots of mosquitoes were present along the Ediza Lake trail and around the lake.

 

High trail towards Thousand island lake, Ansel Adams wilderness

Inlet of Thousand island lake, Ansel Adams wilderness

Cannot capture the beauty of the lake

Morning, Thousand island lake, Ansel Adams wilderness

Leaving Thousand island lake

Thousand island lake, Ansel Adams wilderness

Garnet towards JMT south bound

Ediza lake, the jewel of the Sierra